Australia's Wine List of the Year Awards

Best Country Restaurant List: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld

The transformation of the Royal Mail from cheery country pub into one of Australia's most exciting restaurants began in 2007 when uber-talented chef Dan Hunter wooed diners with his culinary magic. Of course, it does help if there is an equally thrilling wine list, one that complements rather than dominates the cuisine.

Such a high-flying establishment demands a list showcasing the best from Australia, current vintages to much older treasures, while celebrating the best of the rest from Europe, the Americas to New Zealand. Royal Mail's 72-page list comprising 2000 wines does just that and more.

Former wine buyer and head sommelier, Lok Thornton was constantly fine tuning the list during his two year tenure. For the past 12 months he was closely assisted by Jeremy Scheill who took over the reins as head sommelier in June.

The list tantalises with its selection and diversity of varietals while highlighting producers along the way such as Giaconda and Mount Mary or Domaine Etienne Sauzet. Of course there are those wow wines from Bordeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Vega Sicilia or that '67 Château d'Yquem, but Scheill gives equal consideration to the hundreds of wines that are under $100 as much as to more expensive options.

Jane Faulkner.